Flying home

PKim joined us for breakfast, but Ji Hee had already had to leave as it was a working day. I've never had a PA, but it has made for a very enjoyable time, and took so much uncertainty out of everything. Between Dongsik, Ji Hee and Yoo Ree (but they are not alone!) I've been treated like a prince. Had a little putting practice in the lounge part of the room before and after breakfast! PK is a regular golfer, but my putting wasn't too bad. PK then had a meeting to go to but a party of a dozen came to see me off, Yoo Ree joining Dongsik and me in the car driven by assistant pastor who has been with PK for 10 years. The others came in the minibus with my luggage which I didn't have to carry at any point. YouRee had made me a vegetable & mango smoothy, and gave me a copy of a Christian music competition CD on which she has a track. Emotional farewells and loads of photos, videos all round, and then I walked through into the other world of security checks.

It's a long around 12 hour flight, all in daylight, at least until descending into the murk of the clouds only just above a wet Heathrow, but, re-united with my baggage, I didn't have to wheel it very far, as Mrs Kim, Gee, Jyun and Tae Wan were there to meet me with flowers. There was plenty to talk about! Arriving in Hardman Road another 6 or 7 Immanuel members were already coming down the slope to greet me. I prayed with them, and then they brought the luggage round, just dodging the splashing cars outside the house! Immanuel church here in Kingston have of course been following events, have heard my sermon yesterday, know who was at the airport to see me off etc! There's no question - it was a great trip!

Sunday with Immanuel

I'm going to be preaching and speaking at a 2pm service, so I can sit in the congregation with JiHee to interpret for me and make sure I'm not cluttered up with bags etc. The band is good, and it's a happy atmosphere. When Pastor Kim comes on to speak,he has a very laid back, jokey conversational style, engaging individuals, and people can join in. The service is 1045 to 1245, kept a bit short because I'm on afterwards. Everyone has a lunch and I'm part of the inner group who eat in Pastor Kim's office. We have a succession of young children joining us to recite and sing in English - 5 Little Monkeys, ABCDEFG etc, each rewarded with sweets. A slightly older girl is too shy, but she joins in when we're back in the church. There are a series of musical offerings in my honour, by the children, then a duet, and a very funny turn by one of the jokers of the church before Yoo Ree [I know I haven't got the spelling right, Yoo Ree, but I'll check later when I'm collected at Heathrow, by Pastor Kim's family - we've just gone over the northern end of Lake Baikal] sang the Celine Dion song The Power of Love very passionately, and dedicated it to me! After that it was my turn to speak and preach! Ji Hee was interpreting and did fantastically well - the sermon really flowed, and I did it Pastor Kim style, not consulting my notes! Then I talked through a fair number of my pictures that they projected. It wasn't difficult to weave some Busan experiences into references to the growing mission of the church from the Acts of the Apostles. Pastor Kim (PK) was delighted, but also very sad for me that we don't have a large congregation for me to preach to at John Bunyan. I presented my gifts for the "National Gallery" in their Cafe London, and for PK. There was then a breather - time for another meal at the Outback Steakhouse - steak and lobster - guests of one of the older members ie round about my age! PK did manage to join us even though he was preaching again at 7.30 this time in another Methodist Church, The Vineyard Church, a church with 1500 members and a church community of 2500. This is a developing link-up and the first time Immanuel had gone along to a service there, Pastor Lee describing Immanuel as a rising star. Watch this space, but there was a sense this could be significant for the future. The same style of preaching from PK who described himself as nervous, being a shy kind of person - lots of laughter, congregation almost entirely young adults. We had a reception with the pastor afterwards who was very generous with gifts for all Immanuel members and for me. If he'd known I was around I could have preached - it would certainly have been the largest congregation ever for me!  Pastor Lee had been guest for part of the WCC Assembly and was staying at hotel round the corner from - he'd been one of the Korean church dignitaries on the front row at the opening.

Then it was back to pack which of course was not a problem because they supplied me with an additional case, and I can have 2 items of hold luggage by the conditions of my ticket. So I'm coming back with twice the volume and twice the weight I went out with! Having packed, they doing the second case, they wondered about going out for a party. At getting on for 12 it seemed it was probably bedtime to me, but it wasn't a great night's sleep, and it turned out Ji Hee and Dongsik stayed up anyway having discovered about my blog!

Up to the border

After a decent night back with Ji Hee and her family, there's a fine Korean breakfast and before long we're linking up with an Immanuel group of 8 of us for the day in the minibus and we head  up to the border at Imjingak where you are signed on to a coach trip having shown your passport or ID card as you're entering the DMZ (pronounced DMZee) the demilitarised zone. Before we leave on our 4 hour trip - there are shorter and a longer one - we have a look round at the viewpoint to the railway bridge across the river which I think is the boundary into the zone. There's a shot-at locomotive to be photographed by, and some track to be tight-roped by our party, Pastor Kim leading the way. There are prayer wishes for a united Korea tied up along a fence. The coach is full, and there are trips leaving more than half-hourly. We're counted in at the boundary of the zone, and head up to the Dora Observatory where you can look into the north, and the view isn't bad so we can see the Gaesong industrial complex where South Korea provides jobs in the north, and managers etc go through each day when things are functioning. Effectively S Korea is an island because the border is basically pretty impermeable so any getting in and out of the South is much like Britain except they don't have a railway tunnel! There are gift shops at each stop-off place, and a bit of a fair at the place where the coach trips start. Here at the Observation point there are loudspeaker reminders that you can only take photos behind a yellow line that you hadn't noticed. Photos are not permitted as you're driving in the zone on the coach. The atmosphere is in fact pretty jolly, but it's a weird place. Then we're taken to the  third Tunnel, where you go underground on a train wearing helmets, especially for the likes of me who are taller than the average Korean. At the bottom there's quite a long walk where you can hear a few helmets knocking the roof, and when you come to the end it's where a tunnel extends into the North, constructed secretly by them, along with other tunnels for the purposes of invasion. They'd daubed it with black when they were discovered and forced to retreat, and they claimed they'd been mining coal. Then back up for an American propaganda film (at least the "English" version was!). On again to Dorasan newly built railway station, which will be for the purposes of travelling wherever you want in the future eg Europe. We were seeing planning for a future that in some shape or form will eventually come. At present the war isn't finished, merely a ceasefire, hence the DMZ. It was a moving visit. At least one of our Immanuel party had done military service in the DMZ - and there were soldiers willing to be photographed with you like Horse Guards Parade, probably jollier actually! Back from the coach trip there was another viewpoint to see, and then there was lunch to think about. We came out of one restaurant on the advice of another customer who subsequently offered us some pop corny things, and we got some street food before driving off to a very nice restaurant where you cooked the main food, duck (not dog) on the table, one round grilled, a second round boiled. A bit much duck for me - I'd forgotten it's on the fatty side, and soon didn't feel too good for the rest of the day. By now it was the first really wet weather of my visit, but we were still able to visit a traditional part of Seoul mainly for the purpose of stocking me up with traditional gifts to bring home. Pastor Kim is being very generous, and I've decided that being embarrassed is not the right way to appreciate the kindness. We were entertained by 3 young guys making honey sweets on the street, moving from a solid lump of honey to silk-fine threads (I suppose candy floss-like but done by hand). I've got some to bring back. It was 9pm-ish by now - I was feeling pretty groggy, but got back OK and soon recovered. Lively company made for a great day, and Ji Hee is totally my assistant carrying things, shepherding me, as well as translating when necessary. Quite apart from the fact that she's a delight, I could get used to this!

The Assembly finishes

ŴqqqThe hotel can look after my exceedingly heavy luggage until the Assembly finishes around 4pm, but I check out of the room on the most beautiful morning, with an unexpected view across to Japan - looks like a high mountain (volcano?) down towards the closest point. So last time in on the shuttle bus, knowing more people now, not least after yesterday so I sit with Maurizio from Pax Christi who was in the buzz group at yesterday's bible study. Variously I bump into the 2 Korean women pastors in the Women's Church who were also in the bible study, the Myanmar Baptist Pastor from the Baptist meeting who it turns out works in an HIV/AIDS project supported by Christian Aid, Elaine Storkey, Paul Goodliff, the Bishop of the Lusitanian Anglican Church, the Syrian woman. The Korean pastors are working with a migrant church and have written about it. I called at a by now untenanted stand to pick up a leaflet about a session they were involved in yesterday afternoon, and they materialised from nowhere and gave me a couple of books they had prepared especially for the Assembly including the last copy they had. Lovely people, they may be mother and daughter from something I've now read.

Being given a couple of books at this stage is a bit dangerous - my stuff is incredibly heavy, though manageable.

I sat through some of the final business with last attempts by delegates to gettheir phrases and emphases into the final documents, as these will be the policy guidelines for the WCC for the next few years. Arguments over the Middle East statement, Armenia where 2015 is the anniversary of their holocaust, over nuclear power and global warming on both of which the Bishop of Chester intervened, decrying the scientific basis of the statement re nuclear power, and wanting to resist the statement on global warming. He have way without attempting to speak on the latter as he was a lone voice and time was short, but ensured that the nuclear power statement was referred to the Central Committee. Finally it was to the votes of thanks, which was pretty comprehensive by the Chairman, and received an equally comprehensive response from the Chair of the Korean organising committee, who started with the cross, and the Holy Spirit, and towards the end was affirming scripture. One sensed he had an eye on home consumption. It is quite clear the assembly has been a divisive event for many in Korea. We have faced barracking, placards, running the gauntlet of people giving out tracts, fasting, preaching with loud-hailers every time we arrived, left, or went out for lunch - not all have been very gracious about it. Some have spoken a little English but most have just learnt a few phrases which they keep repeating. They have been distributing an old policy document of the WCC. Some have linked the WCC with Communism, others with homosexuality, the main sin being dialogue talking with such people and with representatives of other faiths. To talk with in their reading of the scripture is to be unequally yoked and is the work do Satan. It culminated in the final session when someone infiltrated into the closing worship and prayers, running up onto the stage and looking as if he was about to attack the person who was leading the prayers. Instead he started throwing something, and was very quickly wrestled to the ground by some bigger guys who looked as if they might have been Oriental Orthodox priests who may have to be ready for such occurrences in the ordinary course of events (but I may have that completely wrong).

Morning prayers has felt a bit like hard work, shooting around the worship book with its many languages, and some songs in the order for the day and others at the back, some to be sung in English, others in Korean, or French, or German, or Spanish, often with a mixture so they have to issue you with a supplementary sheet telling what to do. Evening, and the closing prayers today have been easier because it's all been printed out on a service sheet. The closing sermon was preached by Father Michael Lapsley who is the nearest thing to a martyr who's still around, having lost both hands and an eye in a parcel bomb explosion just after Nelson Mandela was released, having been a big supporter of Mandela. He is now engaged in reconciliation work, and spoke very movingly. It's sort of sad it's over but I think we're all ready to be on our way.

For me it's back to the hotel to collect my luggage and get a taxi to the station which is a seriously long way from the hotel - quite a bit cheaper on the way back than it had been coming last week though. Then 2 and a half hours on the train and Ji Hee and Ju Ho were there to meet me at Gwangmyeong Station. Back to the Ahn's where they prepared a nice supper and gave me a fork which I didn't decline. Ji Hee will be translating for me on Sunday. Foyer a while the family start returning from the Friday night meeting at church, including the young nephew who is still up at 11.20pm.

Last full day

 Looked like Neil and I might get to the beginning of prayers, but he was last to get on the bus and I had to follow on the next! Meant I had a chat with a woman pastor from Thailand who was also engaged in prison work, and seems to travel quite a bit, but had strong feelings about those who travel free and go on sight-seeing trips etc - also on the cost of the hotels, which is my feeling too when you're looking at matters to do with the world's poor. Her Presbyterian church is small and she is the only delegate, though they cannot be full members. Excellent bible study buzz group and I even got up on the stage to convey our group's second statement. We were looking at John 14 on peace, and were invited to write 10 words on peace from the point of view of the powers of this world, and then we were invited to write 10 words from the perspective of the people. We had an Italian from Pax Christi, 2 delightful women pastors from the Korean Women's Church, a Japanese, a Swiss and a Canadian. The bible studies have been modelling a way of doing bible study as well as learning on the particular theme. It was then the Peace Plenary, chaired by the archbishop of Cape Town, with a very powerful African Nobel Prize winning woman speaker. Among the other contributors was a young deaf Baptist from Costa Rica who made a big impact too. After lunch caught a very little bit of a session with speakers from Iran, before heading off for sight-seeing tour including a Buddhist Temple. It was a lovely group including some jolly Philippine Baptists who were great singers, 2 from the Syrian Orthodox Church (priest lived in Brazil, the woman I think in Syria - it seems to be the case that quite a few Orthodox live in diaspora). Also Bishop of Portugal, Anglican but that was formerly the Lusitanian Church that came out of the Catholic Church over their new doctrines in the late 19th century. Visited the Dongbaek APEC centre again, the Aquarium and after the temple a coffee shop with Young (who wasn't young but liked being called it) shepherding us relentlessly - it was a lot of fun. Then back for the second Baptist meeting with far fewer in attendance, but a good catch-up. We were invited to say what we had valued - Swedish minister said about the different "we's", which resonated for me, so I contributed too along those lines, including the having attended the early morning prayers. Also one of the " we's" for me was pride in good Baptist contributions as they all had been - Angelique Walker-Smith was there and asked me to give greetings to Myra Blyth. Shared photos of the meeting by email with Rev Dr Ja Bu of Myanmar - she works for HIV/AIDS project supported by Christian Aid.Chatting with the Swedish minister, she wasn't over happy with the loss of baptist identity in their United Church though she is a committed ecumenist. Ended the day with a goodbye to Neil who has been very good company - we found we mutually served as a regular point of reference to talk things over, when you're being bombarded with so many impressions. He flies back on Friday morning, to a busy Sunday and Monday with even something on Saturday!

Piling it on

Back to normal start time today, getting half the prayers, and then the bible study on Naboth's vineyard, a bit of Pacific Islands dance, walked the labyrinth in the Madang (exhibition area), good Plenary on Justice, persisted over very professionally by a Progressive Baptist anchor woman. Then after lunch I got to a talk and discussion on Egypt, another on the International Council of Christians and Jews, an encounter between Indian Dalit and Korean Minjung theologians, a very good talk and questions by a Greek Orthodox theologian on Orthodoxy and politics which was all yesterday's paper wasn't, a talk by an Egyptian Coptic Bishop which shed no light whatsoever on his topic which was Egyptian Youth, though he was obviously distinctly eminent as people were kissing his hand afterwards, then an excellent session with Ecumenical Accompaniers telling of their experience in Palestine. The programme had been swapped round as the Copt bishop was when the book said there'd be a talk on the youth of Syria! Also read the display boards of the China Christian Council. I have met one of the young stewards from Syria, and another from Japan with whom Korea are not on the best of terms at the moment - short chats with each. Evening prayers were including local Korean churches and were focused on prayer for the regions of the world, incorporating long written intercessions followed by Korean loud simultaneous free prayer. I don't think I've ever been at anything that overran quite so long. Notable also for 2 contrasting short sermons - the first by a strong-voiced Rev Bang Ji-il aged 102, the second by firebrand Rev Dr Jennifer Leath an African American Methodist, the one rather pietistic, the other definitely not.

The Assembly glossy daily newsletter included coverage today of our early morning prayer meeting yesterday with a picture of us and a fair bit of text - but in the Korean section! I got someone to translate it for me, and it quoted me commenting on the fact that I've never been to Korean early morning prayer despite it taking place in my church daily, and that perhaps I might think of joining them sometime now! And that I'd always been rather alarmed by the sound of Korean prayer.

Tomorrow I'll do sessions in the morning - then I'm heading off on a sight-seeing afternoon. I checked there was space on the trip I wanted, and then they recommended another one. I'm wondering if that was their way of saying there weren't enough takers so it wasn't running without wanting to say so. After that it'll be the second Baptist meeting in the evening, with the Assembly finishing the following day mid-afternoon and back up to Sanbon, Gunpo near Seoul in the evening hoping to visit the border area on Saturday, and to have time for some Seoul sight-seeing after the service on Sunday.

Madness - but worth it

So the alarm went at 4.25am, and I was down from the 21st floor getting in the minibus that had come from San Sung Presbyterian Church to collect 4 of us at 4.40 for morning 5.30 daily prayers. In fact we were there soon after 5 and were ushered into a gloomy church with a handful of people already there sitting in silence. We were joined by other sand there were more lights on by 5.20 with some recorded soft religious music. With perhaps 100 present there was a short time of worship, a chapter of scripture read - Isaiah 59 which was appropriate to the Assembly theme - then the Pastor spoke for 20 minutes or so on the cross, holding up one from when he was a missionary in Chile 17 years previously. Then to prayer which began with a 3fold shouted Lord, Lord, Lord - it was simultaneous personal prayer but was mostly quiet, though some wailing too the other side of the church - and it was over in about 5 minutes! We were ushered out, served with coffee, ice cream, a lightest cakey type thing and the circular rice things with additional vegetable contents. It turned out to be an excellent discussion that I've recorded elsewhere with the pastor who spoke good English. Among other things our questioning elicited that their Church of 3000 members had actually lost some over the coming of the WCC Assembly. They have sent out 82 missionaries - church members pay 100 dollars a month to support a missionary, 10 families covering the cost for a missionary.

Had some more breakfast back at the hotel, and decided to walk along the beach to the Centre on a beautiful and distinctly warm morning (my warmest bonfire night!). Approaching the Centre, joined in conversation with a young Russian Orthodox woman from Minsk. She conveyed the sense that the Orthodox are not happy. She hadn't been at the Yoido Full Gospel event yesterday evening as the Orthodox had a meal together. The morning Plenary on Unity was very worthwhile. It gave the Romanian Patriarch chance to convey the uneasiness but he was gracious enough, with Neville Callum, Secretary of the Baptist World Alliance, a fully paid up ecumenist following him. After their theology, there was on the ground stuff from a young white woman from South Africa, and the Anglican Bishop for the indigenous in Canada.

Decided to go to an Orthodox event on Authority, which left with a feeling that they knew what power was, but didn't understand much about genuine authority. In fairness Hilario who had written the paper wasn't there to present it, and the chap who did ended up totally on the defensive in the incisive questions that followed mainly from other Orthodox, but also the Bishop of Chester and an American Quaker. Then we had the last session of the Ecumenical conversation on new ecumenical landscapes which was largely concerned with drafting its 1 page document. Heard a longer talk with He Qi than I heard last week, dipped into a Business Session where there were repeated (but procedurally rebuffed) attempts to get attitudes to homosexuality mentioned. Then it was Roman Catholic prayers which were as quiet as last night's were loud - harp, cello etc and some very graceful dancers. Somehow it's got to 11.25pm and I think it's time to call it a very long day.

Relentless

If you try to get to as much as you can, the pace doesn't let up but you do spend a certain amount of time when the lights are dimmed for a main session with your eyes struggling to keep open! Or actually shut! Morning prayers followed by bible study were not hugely memorable today. The Plenary session on Mission was preceded by lengthy greetings from the President (I think) of the World Evangelical Fellowship (I think) - good stuff, especially because they and the WCC and the Catholics had worked together on an important piece of work on mission - but he had to be stopped because he did go on well beyond his allotted space. Then there were greetings from a Jewish spokesperson who affirmed the importance of setting up a state of Palestine alongside Israel, which drew much applause. The mission stuff was OK moderated by Kirsteen Kim who turned out to be from Leeds Trinity University. After lunch back at Homeplus with Neil, I went to a very good Madang workshop on the Global Christian Forum as a wider body than the WCC. Then the ecumenical conversation which limped a bit, followed by time in the Madang Hall looking at photos standing for various nuclear disasters, accidents and bombs. Also a display of recycled art that used various bits of household waste. There was a delegate session closed to others which sounds to have been a bit wearisome to Neil and Elaine who I spoke to. The grand finale was evening prayers led by Yoido Full Gospel Pentecostal people with their Pastor preaching and leading us into the tongues bit. The music was very exciting - and very loud. Pretty weary by now, got some bits to eat in the market behind the hotel, and must now get off to bed as the alarm's going to go at 4.25am for heading off to the early morning prayer meeting at San Sung Presbyterian Church. This isn't compulsory, but it is something they've offered and Neil and I are going to give it a go - we gather not many other people are!

Sunday feast

A rather select group of 5 of us were whisked off from the BEXCO queues in a bright yellow pre-school minibus to attend the "God of light and love Presbyterian Church" - a Swiss couple, Paul Goodliff, Elaine Storkey and me. We were again royally received with Guard of Honour type welcome, my phrases getting rather well-worn but very much appreciated. A look round the church at the various age groups already underway, including teenagers, a choir of perhaps 45 and 3 children's groups preceded a sit and chat in the vestry, before we were taken to our seats at the front of the congregation, only the elders in front of us. Nothing was done in English, but personal translation was  being given just out of my hearing. We had copies of the hymns/songs in English for us to join in the singing. The pastor was pretty young and not over-charismatic in presentation, but the church community we were told consists of around 1000 people and they have fine new 4 year old premises in addition to pre-existing halls. It seemed a good atmosphere, service pretty much an hour, but everyone scarpered at the end to where lunch was being served. As we were being served back in the vestry we didn't meet the congregation as such. Very nice meal again and some good conversation, also we were presented by fans, 'calligraphed' by an elder who was an ENT specialist and also entertained us playing the saw, Nearer my God to thee and Amazing grace. The English 3 of us remained to have a tour round some city sights, the UN War Graves from the Korean War including 668 British, followed by Red Bean Ice Cream, and then the island at the end of Hyundae beach where George Bush and the APEC nations summit had taken place a few years back - the Pacific nations is a bit of a leading role call of nations notably excluding people like us. The others then went back to their hotels and I stayed the course for a Korean cultural evening which was excellent with breath-taking drummers, children, traditional musicians and dancers, a jazz and blues singer and an amazing 12 year old boy narrating the gospel story from the dead Christ on the cross to resurrection in an old Korean style including narrative and song to a one drum accompaniment, spell-binding. The back and Neil came up to talk over our weekends, he having been in Seoul experiencing a mega-church context and visiting the border zone.

Friday

The pattern of the days is set now, but in fact will now change for the weekend. It's up a bit earlier on Saturday for a visit out to a traditionally Confucian village a long way away.  There were quite a lot of choices including  a visit to Seoul and the demilitarised zone. But that's what I'm expecting to be doing with the Immanuel church next weekend. Prayer and bible study followed by an Asia Plenary session which was preceded by a short address from the Archbishop of Canterbury who spoke well, and the President of a Pentecostal Federation - WCC have been building relationships with Pentecostals and I gather this was a bit of a landmark having someone bring a greeting. Hearing Justin Welby speak made you realise it was quite nice to a native English speaker here for a change even though he does sound a bit posh - he spoke well too. Some pleas from Asia followed for climate justice, and re Indian attitudes to girl babies, including a poignant story of conjoined twins born in hospital to a tribal couple who really couldn't take them on. The two were eventually separated which went well but one of them subsequently died, and now the family has received the surviving girl back. A chilling address regarding the persecution of Orthodox and Coptic Christian communities who could well disappear after centuries of history in Syria, Iraq, Pakistan and Egypt which at least one speaker blamed on western interventions. Had an excellent fish lunch, then heard a talk by the Chinese Christian artist He Qi whose folk-artish paintings I've seen before - a very pleasant articulate person. In a business session the tensions between Orthodox especially Russian Orthodox and west European Protestants came out in a number of ways in an address by one of their top people (Hilarion I think I heard). There's a feeling there's not much speaking out from non-Orthodox people about the sufferings, and there's incomprehension of the point western societies and churches are reaching over same sex marriages (shared by the Africans, as emerged in a Baptist meeting later). In a buzz group in the continuing Ecumenical Conversation from yesterday I was with the Bishops of Uganda, Bangladesh and the Prior of Taize. A different Pentecostal leader was present for this, and he had a very different perspective to the man who gave the greeting earlier - maybe he felt he should have given the greeting. The Baptist meeting was very homely, perhaps 60 people and we were all asked to say a bit about who we were and why we were there and what our hopes were and what our previous experience of the WCC was. It was actually very interesting, even heartening, with white people very much in a minority. I think 2 or 3 Swedes and 2 of us from Britain were the sole representatives of Europe. Paul Goodliff, the official Baptist Union representative, has been involved in the developing conversation with the Pentecostals on behalf of the WCC. Then prayers led by Korean Protestant woman, suggesting they do protest a bit, covering a range of current issues in the prayers. A good bit of use is being made of drums in worship. They do make (as the gong did at the very start of the assembly) a very effective start to worship, or, as in the morning to the reading of the bible study passage from Amos. A good quote I noticed - A ship is safe in the harbour, but that's not what ships are for.

Hahwe and Andong

Early start on a bright day - walked into the BEXCO Centre (about 40 mins) and joined the coach party for a long drive to Hahwe Village, a UNESCO site visited by The Queen for 3 nights and 4 days on one of her birthdays in 1999. When asked why she had come, she said, "Because it is Korea in Korea". Good enough for us therefore, and I had my picture taken with the Queen - I was the only person from Britain in the group. We started with a fine meal, and were then on our rounds, sadly with it having turned dull with a bit of moisture in the air, because there were some beautiful autumn colours, and the village was very picturesque with a river coiled round it, and a sacred tree on the slightly higher ground in the middle. We were here partly because it's a very popular tourist site, but mainly as our trip was an encounter with traditional Korean religion - in our case shamanism and Confucianism (others were looking at Buddhism). Saw the most birds I didn't recognise of anywhere on the visit so far, and the river was beautiful reminding me on a much smaller scale of the view at the back of the Taj Mahal complete with ferry-boat. We were next whisked off to a traditional paper-making place where they were still working at 3.30 on a Saturday afternoon - it was a good visit, again I think enjoyed by The Queen judging by the pictures - lovely end products too. Then on to Andong Presbyterian Church where we received a reception fit for royalty. Much bowing and greeting by a whole line of people all very smartly dressed for guests who thought they were going on a casual day out! Armed with tea and biscuits we had a tour of the extensive premises including an exhibition (entirely in Korean) of their history going back 104 years in which Christian Endeavour had played an early part. In Andong Christians are only 10 per cent of the population, much smaller than in Korea as a whole on account of the strong traditional religion in the area. We were told how they engaged with and gained the respect of local people by some of their activities like running a children's library. They were also well regarded for their active stance in a march protesting against the Japanese occupiers when 7 church members were arrested - there are still 5 of their descendents in the church. They have sought connections between Korean Confucianism and Christian faith, the former providing a fertile soil for the latter to be sown in, and in fact continuing to shape the courtesy, deference, generous hospitality characteristic of Koreans. There were 2 lectures, greetings from the Mayor, an MP and the Council leader, also musical items by the children including an almost in tune Korean flute, a gagayeum, and a nimble-ish dancer who turned out to be about 70. All followed by a very nice hugely varied meal indeed that actually turned out to be quite easy to eat with chop sticks, unlike at lunchtime. Then we were all given a gift, carved miniature dance masks. Another aspect to the day, was the company on the coach. There was Alexei Bodrov who knew Malcolm my brother from his Keston work, Charles a delightful insightful Korean origin American Methodist minister in New York City, and Iiris who runs the Finnish Evangelical Lutheran Press Service as well as shorter conversations with others. A very enjoyable day - but at least I know tomorrow to put my suit on for attending Sunday worship!