Into the routine

Into the routine, except I made an interesting mistake before getting out of the hotel. It takes 2 lifts to get out, and when I changed lifts I managed to get on one that took me back up most of the way I'd come from, then a long wait for the next one, which was a shame as Neil who was waiting for me was wondering where I'd got to! Still the shuttle bus got us there in about time for the morning prayers, and then the participatory bible study which was well led by a Tongan who teaches theology in Australia - quite entertaining even, on the Genesis 2 creation story. For one thing he linked the words ecology  and economy and ecumenical (all to do with the Greek word house). The main morning input session was preceded by a greeting by the Prime Minister of Korea - special security for that one. The session included the UN director of Aids programmes, an Egyptian woman speaking of what has been happening to churches and Christians there, then a thoughtful bishop from Sri Lanka. I'd noticed you could sign up for a tea ceremony and there was a gap at 3, so I didn't attend much of a business meeting which wasn't terribly relevant to me. I can make a cup of tea quicker than they did, but I guess that's the whole point - and it was another time down on the floor - don't know how many years I've got ahead of me for that! Next a very good Ecumenical Conversation session on issues regarding the future of the ecumenical movement, taking account of global changes both religious and things like the movements of population for economic or climate change reasons. Climate justice is emerging as a key concept, with the world's poor recognising that they aren't the ones using the fuels etc. We talk about climate change, they talk about climate justice. At least as many Christians are Pentecostal now as are in WCC member churches (overlapping a bit), so how representative is the WCC? As an African Archbishop put it, "Who are the Christians in London now?" Which is one of the reasons I came to the event. At John Bunyan we're about 15 altogether, but there's a larger number of Koreans, and a larger number still of Nigerians also worshipping in our building on Sundays - that's pretty typical especially as you get further into London. Then there was a European regional meeting with input from a Greek woman about how it feels in Greece at present - when they talk about Europe they refer to them out there, rather like we still do in Britain - they feel on the outside. Then Orthodox style prayers to end the day - oh, and I'd been to Taize prayers at lunchtime. Time for a wander round the market at the back of the hotel when Neil and I got back. Plenty of fish swimming around and a lot of rather moribund eels, but then it was getting towards bedtime. Had some more battered fishbits, maybe more adventurous tomorrow night. Met up with Paul Goodliff, our Baptist Union representative, who before he was a minister was a teacher at Tiffin School and used to come over torches Kaleidoscope Cafe for his lunch! Met a lady from New Zealand who'd been in New Malden last week. The world is a small place, and there are some people who seem to be doing an enormous amount of travelling. There are some pretty exotic looking people - and that's just the clergy!

WCC Assembly underway

I never did get the temperature down in the room, so it wasn't the best of nights but good enough. Finding the breakfast place wasn't straightforward, but had a decent-ish fusion breakfast when I got there. My first real encounter with Assembly people, but sat on my own until hearing someone about my own age introducing himself to someone else as being from Wales. Turned out he was originally from the other end of Cheshire, Wirral, but was now a  Presbyterian minister in Llandudno, and incoming moderator of the Presbyterian Church of Wales. Nice person to meet, and we spent a lot of the day together, he also at his first such event. Shuttle bus to the BEXCO Centre which was pretty swish, not big by Kirchentag standards, but a very convenient set-up with plenty of facilities and also cheaper eating nearby. Got registered, and after an uninspiring orientation session, the event got going properly with a big bang on an Asian gong and straight into the worship for the opening prayer session which was very impressive all round, with all continents represented and concerns shared - great Korean musicians and singers too. Met Suk In Lee, a Korean minister I know from Kingston, as you do! After lunch in a Homeplus (possibly Tesco!) Food Court with Presbyterian Neil, it was the first main session of greetings and a presentation by young people conveying the history of Korea and it's relationship with Christianity, done in music, dance from ballet to Korean masked dancing in which they whisk streamers around from their hats (among other things), grippingly and powerfully presented. You forget, if you knew, how much misery some people have gone through. Found I was sitting next to Loretta Minghella Director of Christian Aid for this one, and that she immediately Tweeted something I said. Next but one to her was the Christian Aid person who was keeping up a regular record of what was happening, which I was getting as I Follow Christian Aid! Then to a business session which was interesting enough but rather long reports of what the WCC has been up to since the last Assembly in Brasil in 2006. I decided to cut at 6.30 and got back for another round of battered fish bits on the beach, before heading in to set about cooling the room and reading papers etc for tomorrow (rather than attend another business meeting). Very nice warm weather, and a very good opening day.

And on to Busan

Traditional Korean breakfast again set up the morning for a "mountain" walk. Beef again and plenty of hot spicy things, and I thought I heard dog, but on enquiring further it was duck! The man of the house goes up the local mountain every morning before going out to work. His alarm goes around 4.45! We made up a party of 7 setting out from the flats, and heading up what was a pretty steep path, coming down a wilder way. Pastor Kim who was immaculately turned out in modish hiking kit, as was my host, takes the church up there regularly apart from in the summer, and indeed he strode ahead at all times. He was concerned for me and had a walking pole to lend me - even though I'd shown him my Helvellyn pictures and this was about half the height. However a very nice mountain and forests to have on your doorstep - reminded me of parts of Germany and the lower hills of Switzerland near urban areas. Back down there was of course a restaurant immediately on hand, for eating again seated on the floor. Along with now familiar things, the main feature this time was putting a piece of pork on a lettuce leaf in your hand adding some hot chilli and hotter chilli paste, wrapping it up and eating it in one pretty large mouthful. Dongsik says if I'm missing Korean food when I get back she'll take me to New Malden - can't quite imagine sitting on the floor to eat in New Malden though.

Back for a shower, then over to pick up the Busan KTX train, a TGV lookalike which gve a pretty good window on going down the Korean peninsula, even though I had one of those stupid seats without proper window, and what I could see was largely blotted out from time to time by Koreans pulling down the blind because there was a risk of a few autumnal sun's rays reaching them. Pastor Kim was concerned I hadn't put on sunblock before going round the Folk Village yesterday, even though we immediately went into a shop, to a restaurant and were then wandering about under trees.

Took a taxi from the station and watched the Won clock up alarmingly, thousands of them, which probably translates to £12.50, then have paid a truly massive amount of money for staying in the Seacloud Hotel (I asked for the lowest level of hotel accommodation, and I think it is in the right band). Anyhow I'm now unpacked and moved into this aptly named hotel. I'm on the 21st floor with a view over the sea which I can also hear, so no complaints on that front. Not sure I'm going to be willing to pay for too any extras - so wifi access may have to wait for the conference centre tomorrow. Had a quick walk on the beach, got £1.50 worth of the equivalent of fish and chips, bits of all sorts. Also found Chai Latte sachets just near the hotel entrance (and a snickers), so have had a very satisfying, simple to eat meal for a very nice change.

The meals have been amazing, but quite hard work as I've largely insisted on using chopsticks. Another fascinating area of experience here has been taking your shoes off at the door and connected issues. Shoes with laces are a bit of a bind when you're popping in and out a fair bit, but if you're carrying a bag and you place it down on the wrong bit of floor in the entrance area you have to be rescued, or at least the bag does. My feet don't fit in the kind of flip flops they have, so it's best not to have socks with holes - a pair I was wearing just about held out. Yet when it comes to food, implements seem readily shared, communal serving dishes are revisited with spoons that they've used for soup. I'm sure they have ways of doing it that preserve good hygiene, but compared with the fastidiousness over shoes, when the soles of my shoes will often be cleaner, than socks I've been walking in for half a day, the eating habits seem positively liberal.

Don't seem to be able to get the heat down at present from the default 26 in the room, but it's time to try sleep.

Korean Folk Village

Then the activity kicked off! Korean folk dance display, Mongolian style horse-riding, traditional wedding, a folk museum, a walk around traditional houses, archery, skipping, air rifle shooting for soft toys, dodgems, Korean ghost train, swings, a stick-throwing game - all accompanied by lots of photographs. After which it was of course time to eat again, and after a short drive we had an amazing meal in a restaurant where you're on the floor at low tables where you're provided with all the ingredients and there's a cooking point in the middle of the table with a cast-iron wok for boiling salad leaves etc plus dropping in thinly sliced beef for a few seconds, then noodles, then rice pudding. After which I thought we were on our way home, but of course we hadn't had drinks so we soon stopped again at another eatery Bona Kava for tea/coffee and Kuchen. Back about 1015. A very jolly day. Pastor Kim creates an amazing atmosphere among his followers, I think you'd call them. It turned out he has a co-ordinator who was keeping a eye on his appearance through the day, advising on wardrobe etc as well - he certainly has the capacity to be photogenic! My efforts continue to look exactly a bit of an effort to me - I have definitely never been as much photographed!

Monday

Breakfast at 8.15 was the kind of meal my hostess believes it ought to be - a major Korean meal with plenty of hot and spicy things, pink rice, beef, kohlrabi, sesame leaves, fruit salad including tomatoes, peppers, and there was tea provided for me, Rosemary tea. We were soon walking out round to the church calling at a bank on the way where I've changed some sterling, and found that if you get the right machine my card will work too. Then they were setting me up with a temporary mobile phone. They are seriously amused at the old Nokia I use. They are on their smartphones the whole time, contributing to the incredibly smooth running of their planning for my visit. The first visit to the Immanuel Church was special, with it's London themed Cafe - I've got lots of pictures to show just how London-themed it is. I had a largely vegetable smoothie that one of our party of 8 for today insisted I should have first for my well-being, and then a very nice Korean tea, sweet lemon tea. Then we were off to the Korean Folk Village Park some distance away. First thing was to kit me out with souvenirs to bring back for church members and others. I've got a Korean T-shirt that I've been wearing straightaway though the day didn't turn out quite as warm as it seemed it might. Second thing was eating and we went to a no-nonsense restaurant that got the food on to the table quickly, and plenty of it, bibimbap for me - you're provided with the ingredients in your cast-iron bowl, piping hot, the stuff still sizzling and you mix it adding hot chilli pickles to your taste. There's soup as well, and what they called Korean pizza, bit like an omelette that everyone helped themselves to, along with the kimchi pickles.

The pace keeps up

After lunch, the exhibitions and more photographs, it was back on the road to Gunsan, our most distant point for a walk round a lake, a beauty spot, where we certainly weren't the only ones, though by far the largest group with our 3 coaches arriving where there wasn't anywhere to park coaches. It was a spot for taking lots of pictures, Ken Mok-sa-nim being in need for everyone's pictures. Pastor Kim (Kim Mok-sa-nim) is an absolute natural at this - my efforts looked rather less convincing, to me at least, but I think allowance was made for the fact I was obviously jetlagged. It was a late arrival back as we were joining the traffic of the masses who had gone out to experience the autumn colours which are approaching their best. The late hour meant I could be excused the final meal of the day around 9.30pm to a steakhouse. My insides just needed a rest!

Hitting the ground running

After the ten and a half hour flight without any real sleep, it was a big welcome around 3.30pm with flowers and a lot of familiar faces from the Immanuel Church. Dongsik and I were driven off with Pastor Kim, our luggage taken care of by others. We were dropped off at Ji Hee's home, meeting her mother who I recognised as having visited Kingston (and later her father), they being my hosts for this part of the visit. A quick shower, then off to Pastor Kim's for a typical Korean meal prepared by some of the young women of the church, though they decided I didn't look good for eating at the low table sitting on the floor. They also used cutlery in my honour! Then a speedy departure to the Cultural Centre for a concert by the Prime Philharmonic featuring a striking first performance followed by a range of folk songs and light opera by 4 fine (at least one very well-known nationally) soloists.  More than ready for bed afterwards, and a bit groggy from the flight.

Comfortably and fairly well rested, Korean-style breakfast with the option of chopsticks started the day at 7.20 and we were out walking to join the church 3 coach party about to be on the road at 8. There's going to new shortage of food, and I'm bought 2 drinks at a services - green chai latte, and an iced coffee that was saved for later. We stop two and a half hours later at the Saemanguem barrage which at 33 kms holds it's place in the Guiness World of Records. It has been arranged for us to go up an observation tower not normally open to the public on the grounds of the visit of a distinguished minister visiting from abroad! It's a beautifully warm day now. Then on to the Henry Appenzeller Memorial Church that commemorates the American Methodist missionary who did so much to translate the scriptures, the complete bible becoming available in 1938 long after he had drowned when 2 ships collided after the turn of the century while on his way to a meeting about scripture publishing. The church houses 2 displays, about Appenzeller's work generally, and showing the early, and subsequent translations - also bibles from around the world - a labour of love by the Presbyterian minister who had made contact with the family in the States resulting in them visiting and handing on the archive. The location of the memorial church was determined by proximity to the place where Appenzeller's ship had gone down.

We had held a service in the church where I as preacher had exceeded Pastor Kim's expectations in terms of length. A happy occasion which made it clear how much my visit is appreciated, and how much we at John Bunyan have contributed to their story. Then it was lunch that had been brought with us.

On the way to Seoul

At Heathrow, ready for the flight to Seoul with Dongsik of the Immanuel Korean Church that meets at our John Bunyan church. It's now Friday evening and on Sunday I'll be preaching to their Sanbon congregation outside Seoul. I'm told we're going to be out in the countryside somewhere as they know I'm a walker in more ways than one. I think hills may be on the agenda so I've got suitable footwear packed as well as my suit which I may not need this weekend.

Then on Tuesday I'll be on the KTX fast train to Busan for the Assembly of the World Council of Churches. All in all, pretty new experiences for me. Looking forward to it all!